I have started a project like I’ve never done before. My friend asked me to recreate his house as a part of H0 railway model. Working with such tiny details requires precise calculation and careful use of laser cutter – some details are going to be smaller than 0.5 mm. Challenge accepted!Read more “Tiny house? Even tinier!”
I have noticed that the plaque on my ancient Line6 guitar amp started to fall apart. The obvious option to
fix it make new one was to use advantages of laser cutter. The procedure is very simple:
- scan or measure the original plaque, draw new one of the same size.
- apply transfer paper to the acrylic glass you will be cutting the plaque from
- vector engrave all details – remember to mirror flip the image as you’ll be engraving on the back side.
- cut around the shape
- remove the paper from parts of one colour, spray paint the acrylic (few thin layers), allow to dry
- remove the rest of the paper, spray paint another colour, allow to dry
- add double side adhesive tape on the back side
- attach to your amp and enjoy
Testing is important. This laser cut/engraved leather Mjölnir has been heavily used for nearly a year. It looks better than new now, and doesn’t change since it got that “used leather” look. Seems like it’s going to work for years. Good job.
It’s nice to receive gifts. Especially when the gift brings personal memories. Here we have nice box and key fobs for very special Grandpa, who enjoyed riding his BMW R50 nearly half of a century ago. On one of such trips he’s met a very special Grandma…
I did have old, Russian clock enclosure, and I wanted piggy bank. That was very quick and very easy upcycling action. Maybe 15 minutes including design, cutting and assembling. Top and bottom of coin compartment made of 3mm plywood. Walls around – 3mm acrylic glass. Looks good, now to testing 😉
I’ve added clamps that hold cut/engraved material flat on the table. The birch plywood I buy is often bent. It’s also common problem with acrylic mirror, due to protecting layer on the back side. Now I can cut everything nicely and evenly.
I’ve seen hundreds of different K40 table projects: adjustable, non-adjustable, 3d printed, welded, improvised, motorized etc. I just wanted a bed easy to adjust every few days, stable and attached to gantry rather than to wobbly bottom. Here we go: few aluminium extruded profiles, 4x M6 screws, 4 springs and I have a bed that does what and how I need. I can remove slats and only leave them where support is needed – that allows me to have clean, tidy cuts. Read more “K40 Laser table”
Very interesting interview with Ton Roosendaal by BlendeGuru. A lot about licensing, access to formats and libraries and differences between open and closed source approach.
…to personalise your wooden gifts for Christmas. Use contact form to find out more.
Finally I have finished most of my K40 mods. The plan is mostly realised. We have
- Proper wiring, key switch, kill switch
- 12V adjustable speed bilge fan for smoke exhaust
- 12V water pump
- 12V internal LED light
- LED laser pointer
- Air assist with adjustable air flow rate
- Water flow senor (disables laser if flow rate too low)
- Water temperature sensor (disables laser if temp too high)
- Water level sensor (because water tank is black opaque to prevent algae growth)
- PSU compartment temperature sensor
- Lid open sensor (disables laser when open)
- Digital percentage and current display for laser power setting
- High flow case fan for PSU compartment
Mechanised adjustable bed still needs to be done. I’ve seen few projects and didn’t like them very much. In free time (free time?) I’ll design my own adjustable, powered bed. Now it’s time to cut and engrave!
That’s how it works: